Dyeing technique where the length and width of a bolt of fabric (tanmono) is stretched and hold taut using thin wooden sticks with needles on both ends (shinshi-bari). Dye is applied using a wide brush (引染刷毛) and the fabric is steamed to set/fix the color. Used to add the base color to fabrics.
Applying a base color to fabrics used to be done using dip-(or immersion) dyeing (shinzen・しんぜん), but with the introduction of decoration techniques that required more sensitive handling (i.e. yuzen), this was no longer optimal. Hikizome (literally pull dyeing, from pulling a brush) became a practical alternative. Although the process looks simple, it requires experience, as many external factors (material, temperature, humidity) affect the entire process from color-matching to applying the dye.
Hikizome is (often) one step in the kimono creation process, and is done by a specialized workshop. When used in combination with yuzen or stenciled patterns, the designs are protected with rice starch before the base color is applied.
- The dye is prepared and tested (dyed and steamed) on a small sample. The mix is adjusted until the result matches the required color, and a batch of dye, enough for the required amount of material is prepared.
- The length of the fabric is stretched between two poles using ropes and wooden clamps with small needle-like metal teeth (harigi・張木), while the width of the fabric is held taut using small sticks with a needle at each end (shinshi-bari・伸子張り). Up to 400 shinshi (spaced ~15 cm apart) can be used depending on the length of the fabric.
- A mix of seaweed-based glue/starch (ふのり・funori) and soy-bean water is applied to both sides of the fabric. This process is called Jiire. The mix will help the dye set and penetrate the fabric evenly.
- The fabric is then dyed with a wide brush made from deer hair (hikizome-hake・引染刷毛). Care is taken to make sure the dye is evenly applied. At this stage, it is also possible to add a gradation.
- The fabric is taken down and draped on a large rack. Newspapers are placed on top of the fabric to protect, and make sure no condensation drops onto the fabric during steaming (蒸し). The rack is placed in a steamer (mushi-ki・蒸し機) that resembles a small house. The fabric is steamed for 30 to 50 minutes to set the color. Steaming is sometimes repeated for darker colors.
- After steaming, the material is thoroughly washed (mizumoto・水元) to remove the glue mix (jiire), rice-starch (protecting designs) if any, and any excess dye. Washing used to be done in local rivers but environmental laws now prohibit this. Many dyeing workshops are still found around rivers.
- The final step is sending the fabric to a yunoshi (湯のし) to stretch/steam-iron the material.
Different workshops use slightly different processes and tools, but the above process steps are done in some way or another in most cases.
Hikizome can be recognized easily on a new bolt (tanmono) by the distinct blurred area that separates the dyed part from the part used for holding the fabric. It is also possible to see the very small holes left by the shinshi-bari at the edges.